Day 101 – Cremona

Finally I have a day in Cremona. The train connections are not great, requiring a long wait in a minor station with no benches, but I finally arrive. Walking from the train station to the historic center, I pass through this gallery where an artist has hung a piece representing somehow the effects of climate change on a river. I like the way it hangs under the gallery ceiling.

I’m impressed with the town hall and its vaulted ceilings.

In the center of this section, an arm reaches out holding a ball. This image is unique to Cremona, based on its history.

I sign up for a guided tour of the city center, but first head off to the Museo del Violino, the Violin Museum. Interactive digital exhibits enable visitors to construct violins. I enjoy the experience, but am lacking the patience to pay too much attention to the details. The city of Cremona displays its treasured antique instruments in a large dark room to the soothing sounds of violin music. I find most interesting the history of violin making in Cremona and the lives of the early masters.

While waiting for the city tour, I have lunch in the arcade of the town center across from the cathedral. It is a perfect spot out of the intense sun. I enjoy an excellent caprese.

I smile to see the woman sitting in front of me ordering the same salad and taking the same photo.

The Cremona town hall has not updated its facilities, perhaps to save the ancient and very beautiful tiles that have stood the test of time.

At one point Cremona wanted to cover the facade of its baptistry with marble but ran out of money with it half done.

The guide gave a very elaborate explanation of the clock on the tower, but unfortunately I could not follow the technical details in Italian. In any case, it is a very special clock with its many hands rotating around in some mysterious manner.

Cremona’s patron saint Sant’Omobono was a merchant who did good deeds. He is represented in images throughout the city with a bag of money in his hand. He died in the late 1100s and was made a saint in 1199. Here in the crypt of the cathedral lies his remains. A nearby plaque states that he is worshiped throughout Europe.

This statue represents another unique aspect of Cremona’s history. At one point Cremona had to pay a large ball of gold each year to the Holy Roman Emperor. They rebelled against this tax by sending one of their magistrates to challenge the son of the Emporer in some kind of duel. The city of Cremona won and from that point onward, an arm with a ball is part of the city coat of arms.

On the way back to the train station, I come across shops selling precious string instruments. I wonder how these valuable instruments can withstand the sun’s intense heat.

Cremona’s streets, like those in Piacenza, are framed by tall buildings with little to no greenery.

Back in Piacenza, I say goodbye to the view from the terrace that I was unable to use because of the heat.

I am happy that I visited Cremona, but glad to be off to Switzerland, where I hope to find more green.

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