Day 40 – Pianora

Today on our last day, we visit the art studio of Paolo Medici, a master in frottage, the art of creating images through rubbing over a textured surface.

Paolo has created a work based on three very large paintings by the Florentine painter Paolo Uccello depicting events that took place at the Battle of San Romano between Florentine and Sienese forces in 1432. 

Paolo’s work is done entirely without a brush.

His spacious studio allows room for his collection of African art.

Paolo gives us an intro to his work and patiently answers all our questions.

Many of Paolo’s works feature women. This one is my favorite.

After lunch with Paolo in his studio, we head south toward Fabriano.

Reaching the sea at Fano, we take time to wade in the Adriatic and have a gelato at Giorgio’s favorite gelateria. I have a coffee granita to die for.

On Fano’s dock are several fishing cabins called “quadri” for the square nets that are lowered into the water. Structures similar to these quadri can be found further south in Abruzzo where they are called trabucci.

We head inland from the coast to visit once again the town of Frontone with its castle offering views of the mountains

and the farmlands.

Waiting for the trattoria to open, we wander the tiny town’s narrow streets and admire its charming historic facades.

We eat dinner at a place where the dining is family style, all sharing in the platters. First comes tortellini with porcini mushrooms.

The meat is roasted over a fire near the diners.

And I must mention the spinach with potatoes and the crescia, yummy and crunchy, the best bread ever.

After a great last meal, we head off to Fabriano to pack up and go our separate ways.

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