Day 3 – Rishtan

We had breakfast at Said’s Guest House, which also serves as a ceramics workshop.

Across from the front door are life-sized wooden cutouts that announce the workshop with a camel train and a mule rider.

Next to the front door is an enormous rose bush, the kind that is flourishes in the Fergana Valley.

We visit once again the international ceramics center. Laura checks out what’s behind the enormous ceramic platter that greets visitors.

We visit the shop of Alisher Nazirov, the brother of the artisan we met yesterday. A master potter, he is depicted in a large painting hanging in his shop.

The artisans both live and work at the center. Master Nazirov shows us his display kitchen, which he created with his unique and beautiful ceramic tiles.

Down the way, a little girl in pink plays on her pink scooter.

The tools and teapot of construction workers who are building a shrine next door.

We eat lunch at Master Nazirov’s home. The patio’s lush foliage holds ceramics in its branches.

The bread at lunch is beautiful. Especially tasty is the crispy top round suffused in oil that peels away in shreds. Heavenly!

The fresh fruit also tastes delicious.

Our group of four newcomers eat separately from the others to reduce our exposure to Covid.

While we lunch, the master’s grandson plays on his electronic device.

Master Nazirov runs a school for ceramics and has eight students who serve as apprentices. This young man has been with Master Nazirov for 12 years and has become like a son in the family. Part of his training is to learn to throw pots blindfolded.

This wheel is over 150 years old and still very much in use. The apprentice prefers to use it over the electrical wheels because it involves his entire body.

It happened to be Master Nazirov’s birthday. He was honored to receive an award from the Uzbek government for his efforts to preserve the country’s traditional ceramics.

Next we stopped at the local market and found some very friendly people. We somehow managed to communicate basics despite the language barrier.

This lady wanted me to take her photo.

When I showed it to her, she shrunk back and pointed to her wrinkles. I took off my glasses and pointed to mine. We laughed.

Enough cabbage for several dolmas.

Bread is beautifully decorated .

This shoe repair man is fixing a backpack using a very old but functional sewing machine.

I bought strawberries, the small, juicy kind, from this friendly woman.

I will bring them to the kitchen at Said’s Guest House for tomorrow’s breakfast.

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