I decide today to visit the Catacombs of San Gennaro, which are located under the Capodimonte hill. I am familiar with the area, having passed the catacombs a few days ago on the way to the Capodimonte Palace and Gardens, but the bus whips along quickly and passes the stop before I know it. A few stops later I get off and wait for the bus that goes back down.
While waiting, I see two men get out of a van and attempt to load a large bag of rubbish into the garbage bins. They spend several minutes in the hot sun trying to stuff the bag into one of the bins.
I give them credit for aiming to make it all fit. More commonly, the bins are overflowing, and people don’t even make an effort.
The Catacombs of San Gennaro advertise that the experience is accessible to all, especially those with mobility issues. However, the entrance is up on this hill by the green cupola, and I have needed to climb down umpteen sets of stairs to reach the catacomb entrance.
The ground is flat once I reach the catacombs. They are on two levels and were built in the 3rd-4th centuries.
The wealthiest families afforded niches with painted frescoes of their family members.
The stone is called tufa, a variety of limestone that is very soft.
Some of the niches are decorated with flowers, birds and animals.
At the end of the catacombs tour, the guide gives two options: climbing back up the many flights of stairs to the bus stop or walking down through the Rione Sanità neighbourhood to the Metro. I take the second option which causes me to pass through this finely decorated arch at the exit of the Basilica of San Gennaro. Little treasures like this in Naples are as ubiquitous as the piles of rubbish on the streets. It truly sad that resources cannot be made available to preserve them.
I walk farther down through the Rione Sanità district and come across more neighborhood shrines.
I also come across murals that decorate the neighborhood. The Rione Sanità area was once known for its poverty, drugs and crime, but recently has undergone a revival, with artists and young people doing projects to improve the area.
This mural is particularly striking…
on the side of this church.
Across the street is another mural that covers a building with the faces of happy children.
And I find another altar to the game of soccer. This one says “I am not Italian, I am Neapolitan.” It does indeed seem like Naples is another country with its own language and culture.
I pass by the Palazzo San Felice, built in 1724. Its unique staircase and architecture have been used as scenery in films and tv spots.
I come across another couple of shrines, the one with Padre Pio honoring a youth who from his photo looks to have been about 20 years old when he died.
So many beautiful old palaces are now cut up into apartments.
I decide to treat myself to a good pizza before I leave Naples. Pizzeria da Attillio in the Pignasecca Mercato is a quick 7 minutes away. It has a Michelin rating. I get a porcini pizza to go. Yes, delicious.
My stay in Naples is winding down. I’m off to the Archaeological Museum tomorrow on my last day.