One of the first mosaics I see in the Archaeological Museum is this momento mori, a reminder that we all meet the same fate.
The plumb line above the skull’s head holds in balance images of poverty on the right and wealth on the left. Under the skull is a butterfly signifying the soul and the wheel of fortune. Same old tune, nice rendition.
I was amazed that this mosaic is actually signed near the top. The signature is very fine as the glass chips are about 1/16th of an inch square.
I veer into an area of the museum once called the secret rooms, which hold an abundance of sexually explicit material, including the very large penises that make for good luck. Over the ages these items were locked up, and when they were open, only men could see them.
Sadly no explanation is given for what’s written on these penises. Overall the museum commentary is mediocre, and the audio guide nearly worthless. When I mention the brevity of the guide to the ticket seller, she says that if the audio guide were more in depth, it would take months to get through it. Again, lost in translation.
Sound was also thought to bring good luck, so bronze bells (with penises) were popular.
A striking contrast are the more contemporary paintings in which only that certain part is covered.
I like this bronze statue of a drunken satyr, so gleeful reclining on his lion skin. He was found in the 1700s at the Villa dei Papiri at Herculaneum.
The gladiator helmets from Pompeii are impressive in their size and weight. And decorations.
On the way home I take a photo in the depths of the Toledo Metro Station, whose walls and ceilings are covered with blue mosaics. This is just one of three sets of long escalators that carry people down to the trains and back up again.
The sales season is on. Legally stores can have sales only in certain designated periods twice a year. I decide I’d like to supplement my well-worn garments with something new.
Stores close at around 8pm, and I’ve got about an hour to check out offerings, but with these crowds on Via Toledo, it’s difficult to make headway. Everyone is out, but not for a passeggiata. This part of Via Toledo is pedestrian only, but it’s filled with people not going much of anywhere.
Saying goodbye to Naples, I take a photo of the foyer outside my apartment. The place has served me well, being clean, quiet and pleasantly cool.
I’m off tomorrow to Lucca.