The days are passing quickly here in the woods. The river water flowing over the rocks makes a constant soothing sound, and under the shade, I find a haven from the intensely hot sun.
Francesca drives us into Genova to buy some books and alum for mordant. I want to try eco-printing on book paper. The woods are just a few kilometers from Genova, but the city is a stark contrast. I will NEVER drive the autostrada in Genova.
Francesca knows the city well and after driving around for quite a long time looking for parking, we finally find a spot and head for the book stalls. Each book is wrapped in plastic, which makes it difficult to determine whether the paper might be good for printing. The bookseller accommodates by opening a few, and I choose a book of Genovese proverbs.
We drive up to the Castelleto Levante where Francesca says there is an amazing view of Genova. I am fortunate that Francesca is interested in history and can explain to me where the medieval city walls stood and how the city developed from the ancient port. She is an art restorer and is very knowledgeable about art and history.
An elevator brings people up to this spot. I hope to take it when I return to Genova next week. Buildings with the traditional Ligurian painted facades stand atop the hill.
Francesca explains that these brick steps form one of the ancient pathways in Genova. At one time, there were no roads connecting Genova with other areas. People either had to take these steps out to paths in the mountains or take boats. One of Napoleon’s projects created roads that connected Genova with other areas so this network of steps became less important.
The next day we visit the Sanctuario di Nostra Signora della Guardia, a place of pilgrimage on a mountain close by. It was recommended to me by one of then volunteers here as a worthwhile visit. I am astounded at the size of the site. It is not just the little chapel I had in mind.
Many of the mountain tops around Liguria have either sanctuaries or forts, and it is amazing to think of the logistics to build such structures far from resources.
This sanctuary began when a shepherd saw an apparition of the Madonna, who told him to build an chapel in her honor. His family thought he was crazy and dissuaded him, but when he got very ill, again saw the Madonna and recovered, they supported him in building the first little shrine. Over time, the place grew.
Pilgrims bring ex-votos thanking for the Madonna for saving them from some kind of danger. I was surprised to see this painting placed by the Madonna della Guardia Society from Reno, Nevada dated 1935-1985.
Ex-votos cover the walls, each wall devoted to a particular type of danger: war, transportation, illness, accidents. The ex-votos cover a time period of centuries. Each one is unique, showing the particular circumstances where the Madonna intervened.
Each ex-voto shows the lives of those offering thanks. This particular image from 1890 catches my attention. Two-year old Maria Campanella recovers from paralysis after seven months in bed. The doctors couldn’t do anything, but she recovers, and her family thanks the Madonna for her help. Each ex-voto is unique and poignant.
This ex-voto reflects the 2018 Morandi bridge tragedy which killed 43 people and left 600 homeless.
In the church, a chapel is devoted to newborns, with parents bringing colored ribbons in thanks for their new baby.
Outside we see sweeping views of Genova from a vista point that shows the direction of various places. Diamonte is one of the forts on the mountain range on the other side of the valley. A system of walls and forts were built in the 17th century to defend Genova against invaders.
Bikers and cyclists come to have their helmets blessed. They surely need all the help they can get as they speed around these narrow, curvy mountain roads.
The next day we visit Mele, a small town located up the next valley. Once over 100 paper mills operated by the rivers in the valleys around Genova. Mele’s paper mill has been made into a museum.
Raphael, one of the volunteers at Baixi, makes his first sheet of paper.
The museum shows how the paper making process worked with the old equipment, including this vintage Hollander beater.
This very basic machine took the paper “pasta” and shaped it into a long roll. A very simple wooden board determined the thickness.
The paper was rolled onto this wheel.
Then cut with saws. The sign says: “Always work as if the boss is near you.” Incredibly, paper was made in this mill until 1985.
Mele also has its sanctuary: Santuario N.S. dell’Acquasanta, which dates back to the 1400s, although it is said that an ancient pagan site honored a water goddess here. Inside the church, we see an enormous and very heavy crucifix which is carried in processions by men belonging to a confraternity related to this church. Francesca tells me that when the crucifix is carried, the metal pieces make a very nice jingling noise.
Francesca reads about the sanctuary’s history.
I am printing grape vines with pretty good success.
Someone forgot to close the gate, and the donkeys have gotten out of their stall.
We enjoy a refreshing watermelon for dessert. The intense heat leaves us as the sun goes down, but the darkness makes photos blurry.
We go into Pegli for a walk after dinner and come across this exhibit put on by employees working for a local company.
The German volunteers decide to have a beer on the rocks.
We top off the walk with a gelato – a cioccolato fondente – the only flavor I ever order and the very best I have ever had, with chunks of chocolate inside.
Tomorrow another relaxing day in the woods.